Roughing It Gently - Our Travel Adventures in our 2015 Discovery 40E: August 31 to September 2, 2019

First, let us wish everybody a HAPPY LABOR DAY weekend.

People go to the Bridger-Teton National Forest for many reasons. Among them are the viewing opportunities for assorted wildlife, spectacular scenery, recreation, and for exploring the backcountry on hundreds of miles of trails and wild river experiences. Few, if any, would ever be disappointed. The Bridger-Teton National Forest contains some of the most pristine areas within the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. This wild expanse is known to provide habitat for grizzly bears and wolves, along with moose, elk, deer, antelope and eagles, to name a few.

Within the Bridger-Teton National Forest, and within the Greys River Ranger District is a roadway called Greys River Road (FS-10138). Except for a few sections it is mostly an unpaved road, though it is maintained in the winter for year round recreation in every season. This is a 55+ mile long roadway that runs parallel to and hugs most of the Greys River banks, from near its headwaters in the Wyoming Range (aka The Wyomians), all the way north to the beautiful town of Alpine, Wyoming.

So today, since we are only about 14 miles from Alpine and wanted to go check out the supermarket, Broulim’s (aka Alpine Market) at 100 Greys River Road, in Alpine WY, we took a little trip up there, stopping at the Horseshoe Cafe in Etna WY for breakfast. Neighbors had recommended it for breakfast so since we were driving right past it, we stopped to check it out. OMG! The Wagonwheel in Thayne had been our preferred cafe, but this one is even better for comparable pricing. Their pancakes are moister, fluffier and more tasty., and their country fried steak is also better, and includes eggs, and pancakes (which at the Wagonwheel these were extra sides); and their home fries are delicious made with with onions.

Bill's Country Fried Steak and eggs with home fries and 2 pancakes. Believe it or not he did finish it all, as an honorary member of the Clean Plate Club.

Mary had the Horseshoe Special, which was 1 egg, 2 strips of bacon and a half-order of biscuits and gravy. She was given honorary membership in the Clean Plate Club as well.

After eating (or should we say 'stuffing ourselves'), we opted to explore a portion of Greys River road, from the northern side. About a mile from the entrance to the scenic roadway there is an interpretive site which tells you about all the dry-camping and fishing opportunities and rules, location of all the trailheads and distances. Fishing is available all throughout the 50+ miles of the Greys River, be it from the banks or with waders or even from a floating tube, (though be aware of the many rapids). The water is crystalline and one can clearly see the river bottom in the 12"-24" depths, but the cutthroat trout are best found in deeper pockets where the large rocks cast shadows on the water.

Hidden away deep in the Wyoming Range of Western Wyoming.the Greys River is the epitome of a Western Trout Stream. It originates at the Tri-Basin Divide (where Labarge Creek and Smiths Fork also arise), the river passes through a high valley before entering a
narrow boulder-strewn canyon near its confluence with the Snake River.The landscape and waters of the Greys have changed little since the river was first viewed by trapper John Day, a member of John Jacob Astor's party, in the summer of 1811. Actually, the river was originally called John Day's River until 1902. A developed rustic road parallels the river all the way from its origin at the Tri-Basin Divide north to the town of Alpine. Although it is possible to drive a sedan the entire length of the Forest Service Road when its dry, the road is rough enough that most use is by pickup trucks with 4x4 or ATVs. The remoteness of the river allows near-wilderness type opportunities for a wide range of outdoor recreation throughout its entire length. The Greys River is 62 miles long from its origin high in the Wyoming Range to just south of the town of Alpine, WY.

We only drove about 12 miles of the roadway because due to our timing (Labor Day weekend) the roadway was at times full of heavy ATV traffic traveling at high rates of speed, from their fishing spots to their campsites, creating dust clouds on the dusty gravel roads as they raced past us… NOT conducive to enjoy the normally serene natural beauty of the pristine fast-flowing river landscape. But we’ll be back before we leave by the end of September, when we’ll also look forward to witness the changing of the seasonal colors and perhaps even find some more of the area’s wildlife, under a more tranquil setting. We hope you enjoy our photos as we enjoyed the scenery we were privileged to photograph.

We saw this "X" (marks the spot) like ones we had noticed at Palisades Reservoir in earlier days, which we assume is some sort of aerial surveying. Anyway, Roxy needed to 'go out' to 'take care of her business', so we took this marker as a sign to stop here and we did.

We were about 100feet above the river at that location with only very

steep paths to get get down to it so we just photographed it from above.

Roxy loves it when we let her run loose in these wilderness areas. She never wanders far from us and always comes back immediately when we call her, if we feel she might get into trouble where she goes.

Here, she is keeping close to Mary while Mary looks for another photo-op, while becoming a photo-op for Bill.

We could have sworn we saw a bald eagle flying above us but as we waited for the perfect shot of it with our cameras, we soon realized that it was just this Osprey. There are bald eagles in the area though. We even saw one but were unable to photograph it in flight and it never landed for us.

An area of white-water rapids...

From a ledge off the roadway about 50 feet above the river banks, these fishermen are an example of the abundant Cutthroat Trout fly fishing that this area is known for.

We appologize that the photos just don't do the natural beauty of the river, justice.

One of the dry-camping areas

Above and below, you can see how the roadway just drops off to the river below with no barriers or anything to keep traffic on the road, so traveling at night is not adviseable, not to mention that one would frighten the critters away.

We have to handed it to the snow plow drivers to keep their vehicles on the roadway.

These spurs off the road are for vehicles to pull off and

park, from which they can access paths down to the river, for fishing.

Here is one occupied by fishermen.

These photos turned out faded out and do not do the area justice. Perhaps on our next visit we can provide you better images.

A group of ATVs on the road (about 10 others had already passed us).

This tranquility and lack of traffic is the ideal way to visit this area, though it was not common occurence during this Labor Day weekend.

Here are some campers with an SUV and tents for the Labor Day weekend.

Camping is ALL dry with no facilities.

Some cars can access certain parts of this area.

Other parts are best navigated with trucks or ATVs.

On the way back we paid more attention to the lovely town of Alpine, which rests against the mountainside at the convergence of three rivers... the Greys, the Salt and the Snake Rivers. All three of these rivers merge and flow into the Palisades Reservoir (covered in past posts). Because of its proximity to Jackson Hole (45-55 miles), many who work in Jackson Hole make their home in Alpine (which is less expensive to own property). Alpine also provides visitors a small town atmosphere and an abundance of activities for every season. Thankfully our photos improved once we left Greys River Road, probably due to facing a different direction. We believe the earlier washed out photos were due to taking pictures into the sunlight, so next time we will visit the area at a later time of day, so the sun will be behind us.

Rear side of the Bank of Alpine

Corner view of the lovely Bank of Alpine building and property.

El Vaquero (The Cowboy) Taco Truck, a popular lunch spot where diners can eat their lunch right there in shaded spots when it is warn and in full sun when the weather is cooler.

Chevron gas station

Shopping off the main road.

Businesses and residential housing

The Alpine Fire District (non-volunteer) & EMS (supported by Lincoln County taxes)

Residential housing on the outskirts of town.

Completed in 1993, and located 2-1/2 miles south of Alpine, there is the Alpine Wetland Viewing Area that is administered by the Caribou-Targee National Forest (Pallisades Ranger District and consists mainly of bird-watching (white pelican, canadian geese, every manner of ducks, etc.) It seeks to provide wildlife viewing for the public traveling along US-89. Many species of waterfowl, shore birds and waterbirds can be seen here as well as mammals and several smaller species.It is an Audubon "IBA" (Important Birding Area) and part of the Wyoming Wildlife - 'Worth the Watching' program. Seven dikes plus canals impound water from the Salt River, even when the reservoir is low. Signs warn that water depths vary from very shallow to very deep, as well as warnings that Moose are often hidden in the willows and can be very dangerous if approached.

On the outskirts of Alpine WY, is the Rockin M Ranch (cabin rentals and horse rides). Family-owned and operated. It is nestled on the banks of the Salt River, 4 miles south of Alpine and just 39 miles from Jackson Hole, WY. It offers 7 deluxe cabins which sleep up to 7 people, with full kitchens, fireplaces, A/C and heat, covered decks, gas bbq grills and internet service. Amenities include hot tubs, horseshoe pits, fire pits, 2 stocked fishing ponds and daily guided horseback riding with direct access to the Salt River and all the other amenities of the neighboring area, like golf, water and snow-skiing, river white-water rafting, snowmobiling, hunting and numerous other Jackson Hole activities. It offers not only an overnight hotel-type stay, but an opportunity to indulge in the real Wyoming lifestyle experience for between $189/night (3-person cabin for 2 nights) and $179/night (for a 7 person cabin for 2 nights) with discounted rates for longer stays.

A local ranch.

An abandoned barn from an old homestead.

... and the pretty countryside.

Then, just outside Etna (on the northside).

The Baker Cabin (above) in Etna WY is the oldest surviving house in Star Valley. It is a two-room dwelling built in 1889 by Anna Eliza Baker and her 12 year old daughter, May. The logs are hand-hewn on four sides and dove-tailed at the corners. It was the first house in this area to have a shingled roof and wood floors. The Baker family, Alonzo, Anna Eliza, and their 12 children (yes, in a two room house) were the first permanent residents on the east side of Salt River in the lower valley. We close our eyes and try to imagine this dwelling in the middle of vast fields around it, as it must have been for these early pioneers, several hours ride from their closest neighbors and perhaps a day's ride into town.